In today’s post: Learn how to create a flattering midi skirt pattern in your size so you can sew up as many as you’d like!
So here’s the deal. I’m pretty realistic about what my body looks like, and what it looks best in (hello maxi dresses!). However, I really really love the look of full skirts that hit just below the knee. So last year I made an easy gathered skirt and posted a tutorial. Despite being told repeatedly by someone on pinterest that I’m too fat to wear that style (thanks for the tip!), I actually really like that skirt. Sure, I know it’s not the most flattering thing I’ve ever worn, but what can I say . . . I’m not sure I really care.
Anyway, I decided it was time for another comfy full skirt that’s long enough for me to chase my kids around without showing any thigh (‘cuz that would be taking this whole body acceptance thing a little too far). Instead of another gathered skirt, I made a pleated version, and I cut the pieces slightly curved to give it a nicer drape. This DIY pleated midi skirt pattern is kind of a grown-up version of the gathered skirt, and I think it’s actually a little more flattering, which should please my pinterest commenter 😉
Like the gathered skirt, this one is made from knit fabric, which means I didn’t have to add any closures. No zipper, no buttons, no nuthin’. And the waistband is all elastic, which I’ve got to admit I love. I can go out to dinner in this skirt and do my worst (or best) on a plate of enchiladas and still feel comfy. Now that’s happiness.
Sidenote: I am sooooo old.
Sidenote #2: Sorry for the slightly wiggy photos – narrow stripes don’t translate very well on a computer screen.
Anyway, the waistband has elastic in it so it’s plenty stretchy, but it’s made to lay flat against your waist so there’s no bunchiness. Because bunchiness is bad. On the other hand, a full skirt is good:
Especially when you want to channel your inner 4 year old and spin once or twice.
And the pleats? Well, I like the pleats too.
DIY pleated midi skirt pattern
NOTE: Before you start cutting things out, you need to make sure your knit is plenty stretchy. We’ll cut the waistband to your waist measurement, and it needs to be stretchy enough to fit over your hips, meaning you’ll want at least a 50% stretch.
Ok, you only need 3 pieces for this skirt: a waistband and a front and back skirt piece. I used 2 yards of fabric and folded it in half twice, from the top first, then side to side, as you can see in the photo below. The stretch is going side to side. You can create a paper midi skirt pattern if you’d like, but since that would take a lot of paper I just cut out the fabric pieces based on my own measurements.
The waistband piece should end up about 4.5 inches tall and as long as your waist measurement plus one inch. In my photo below, since the waistband is cut on both folds, I cut it 2.25 inches tall and half my waist measurement plus half an inch wide.
I cut the skirt pieces out with a bit of a curve, so the skirt would be more full at the hem than the waist. At the top of the skirt I cut a curve that is about half my waist measurement (so if waist is 30, then skirt should be 15 inches wide along the curve at the top, ON THE FOLD). I measured down 26 inches from the waistline to get the bottom curve, making it as wide as the fabric would allow. I’m 5’3″ and I ended up cutting off about 2 inches to make the skirt hit just under my knee.
How to sew a pleated midi skirt
Once you have those three pieces cut out, the pleated midi skirt is easy to put together. Fold the waistband piece, matching up the two short ends, and sew along the raw edges as marked by the dots below, using 1/2 inch seam allowance. You want to leave an opening that’s just over an inch tall. Backstitch on either side of the opening.
Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and press. You’ll now have a circular waistband with an opening for the elastic to go through.
Here’s the waistband and skirt pieces. As I mentioned before, the skirt pieces are going to be twice as wide as the waistband, making a nice full skirt.
Take one of the skirt pieces and lay it below the waistband. Fold pleats into the skirt piece until it’s just about the same width as the waistband (it should actually be 1/2 inch wider than the waistband on each side to account for seam allowance). You can measure and use math to figure out how big and how far apart each pleat should be, or you can just kind of wing it, trying out pleats of different sizes until you like how it looks. Just make sure to mark the center of the skirt piece and make the pleats even on each side.
Pin the pleats in place, then sew across them with a basting stitch so you can remove the pins and the pleats will stay. Repeat with the other skirt piece.
Sew the front and back skirt pieces down the side seams, RST.
Now the waistband and the top of the skirt will be just about the same width. Slide the waistband over top of the skirt (skirt is right side out), matching up the raw edges. The seam in the waistband should be in the center back, and the opening for the elastic should be facing out. Pin well.
Sew all the way around, attaching the waistband to the skirt, with a stitch that will stretch (I used a serger, but you can use a narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch on a normal machine). Again, use a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Once the waistband is attached, flip it up. Use a safety pin to thread 1.5 inch wide elastic through the waistband.
Try the skirt on and adjust the elastic until it’s as tight as you want it, then sew the elastic together and trim any excess. Hem the skirt to the desired length, and you’re done!
I love this skirt (and I loved the other one, too!). There were so many parts of the writing in this post that I loved in addition to the pattern! Thanks!
I have to say, the skirts you make look good on you! I am coming to terms with my older and not so thin any more body and learning to sew more for myself. I love the longer skirts but can’t ever buy them in stores (I’m 5ft nothing and a size 14), so I am super excited to see your patterns! Love all the stuff you make! Thank you so much for free patterns! 🙂
I am new to this site, and I have the same problem as Elizabeth. 4:11 and size 14-46, depending on the make. I am going to enjoy finding something that fits well, but I have to get used to my shape in the mirror. Too bad they tell the truth.
Beautiful skirt and it looks beautiful on you! Loved this post. I would love to see a solid black top with your skirt as well as the one in the photo. I am saving this post to my To Make In Future files. I am a beginner sewist but your instructions are so clear even a newbie like me can try this pattern. Love your blog!
Haters will hate….You look fantastic!!!!!
Autumn the skirt is really cute on you, great job and I like the purple strip, I think it could be and easy maxi dress as well. How fun.
Looks great! I gotta try this project! http://www.diyordie.club/
Very beautiful. It looks nice on you.
I love this skirt on you! i am pinning this to make one for my daughter who loves this style.
Autumn that’s a wonderful skirt and you look good in it. I appreciate your high standards when you mentioned the pinterest comment-or without any reservations. It shows that you respect yourself for more than what you look like and I think it takes you a step higher on the pedestal.
This is the gathered skirts big sister. And while gathered skirts look great on my kiddos, they don’t look great on me. Thanks for sharing a simple pattern that gives a big impact!
I love a midi skirt more than anything!! This one looks fabulous on you!
Why do rude people feel the need to comment on what they think suits you or not?! Are they a picture of physical perfection? Unlikely.
X Allison @ http://www.thetallmamastyle.blogspot.com
I think the length of this skirt is just perfect for you! It shows the nicest part of your legs. Love the pattern with pleats can’t wait to try it. Thank you for sharing you patterns with us. Hugs from KS
Love the skirt! My younger sister has the same body type as you so i will probably be making her this skirt. I also love the shoes you are wearing in the pics.
Thanks for the tutorial. Your tutorials are great and easy to follow for a beginner like me.
OAN- I really liked your gathered skirt and the way it fits you. Nice to see clothes on a REAL woman with curves.
Thanks for sharing! I think you totally rock this skirt!! Can’t wait to make a few for fall 🙂
Autumn,
You are an amazingly talented person. I love Girl Charley’s Knit Fix too. Have a closet full for those knits. Your skirt pattern in next on my list after I finish my new grandsons romper and his nursing mom’s new dress.
You look utterly astounding in both the skirts, goodness know what that commenter was seeing, maybe their monitor was broken or something… I would love to look even half as good as you do!
Thank you for your wonderful tutorials and the fashion ideas I get from you (love the knotted top!)
Very cute skirt! I love the soft pleats and the fabrics are awesome too. I didn’t know about ponte di roma, I will check out your link. Thanks for the tutorial and tips.
Amazing DIY Skirt Love LOVE Loved IT!!!!
If you want to learn how to make a PENCIL MIDI SKIRT on my YouTube Channel AZURATV!!!
Heres the link for the Midi Skirt Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sF4Jmo1hKI
Love AzuraTv xoxo
#1…you look great in that skirt!! Thanks for tutorial, I look forward to trying it!!
Thanks!
I love that skirt. I don’t understand how you get that patten, also can I make this skirt with another fibric
You look fantastic it this skirt! I can’t wait to make it and get the same results. The best to you!!
Love the skirt pattern. It looks great. Can it be made in another type of fabric such as cotton? Keep making the patterns.Thanks
This specific skirt actually needs a stretchy fabric to work, otherwise it won’t go over your hips!
Nice skirt and shoes
I really like this skirt and the stripes. Just one question: How did you determine/calculate the curve in the waist and hem of the skirt portion? Is this explained in another place on your blog?
How very nice of you to make this tutorial. You look great in the skirt and I noticed your stripes matched up great. I really like the pattern and the way it drapes. I think I’ll be trying this one! Thanks a lot.
Your blog is a DREAM COME TRUE! I’m also LDS, and the same height AND size as you, so seriously, I feel like every single one of your sewing tutorials is perfectly tailored for me!! Thanks for such great content 🙂
You just made me smile! Glad the blog is helpful 🙂
Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial. I’ve just finished my own skirt using your instructions, and I’m really pleased with it. Stylish and super comfortable. I made mine a lot more narrow, since I had less fabric, but it turned out great anyway. I added pockets too (because skirt+pockets=love) and also stiched down the elastic in both sides (over the side seams), to prevent the elastic from rolling.
Thanks again!
Nina from Danmark
PS: People who think it’s appropriate to police other peoples bodies or clothing are just not worth listening to. (And it’s NOT appropriate!) You probably couldn’t please those people anyway, so wear what ever the heck you want if it makes you happy.
I think both skirts look great on you, but really the only opinion that matters is your own 🙂
I think you look fab in all the clothes you make your a great sewing inspiration to all of us who have a curvey figure thanku so much for all your ideas and ignore the negative nellys lol xxxxx
Thanks Rebekah!
Super cute….Skirt and you in it!
Beautiful!! How in the world did you learn to do all this wonderful sewing and pattern design? I made one of the swing looking shirt patterns you have posted and a regular T-shirt. The T-shirt was my very first knit serging project. It came out okay but could have been better. I used old fabric I had laying around in case it was a disaster. The swing shirt came out amazing and I love love love your web site and all you do for us! Thank you so very much!!!!!
Wow!! You look great – it is so smart an go-anywhere skirt. I love the stripes a red top will also compliment your outfit. Well done and wonderful to share so chic.
You look terrific in both skirts…..:) Thank you for always happily sharing your work. I have made a two tops from your patterns and I love them. Carry on and don’t let the turkeys get you down!!!! 🙂