I love sewing with knit fabric – the stretch makes it comfortable to wear and forgiving to sew. Since my local fabric store has a very limited knit fabric section, I buy most of my knits online. The only problem is that when you can’t feel a knit fabric before you buy it, it can be hard to know what you’re getting, and it’s super disappointing to order fabric for a project and realize when it arrives that it just won’t work. To help ensure you get what you want when buying knit fabric, I’m going to explain the main types of knit and tell you what you can expect from each of them, as well as what clothing items I think they’re best suited to.
Girl Charlee is where I order most of my knits – they have a great selection and prices I haven’t seen anywhere else. They provided some fabric for me to review as well as providing the giveaway you can enter at the end of the post.
If you fall in love with any of the fabrics you see in this post, click on over to Girl Charlee to order!
Cotton jersey knit
Cotton jersey is probably the most common type of knit – it’s very soft and fluid and works well for a variety of garments, although I like it best for t-shirts. The most important thing to pay attention to with jersey is the weight. Most online stores will list the weight, and it can vary from extremely lightweight (5 oz) to heavy (12 oz). Many jerseys are on the lighter end of the spectrum and I find that anything lighter than 7.5-8oz is generally see-through and too lightweight for me to be comfortable with (I do have a muffin top, though, so keep that in mind). Very lightweight knit is also quite a bit harder to sew on because it’s gets stretched out pretty easily.
Girl Charlee has a HUGE selection of jersey solids and prints and I find that while the solids are always very soft, some of the prints, especially those with darker colors, can be a little stiff from the dye used to print the design. They soften a bit with washing and I use them regularly, but that’s something I wanted to make you guys aware of. You can see this striped cotton jersey in the raglan easy tee.
Cotton ribbed knit
Cotton ribbed knit is easy to identify because it has lines (or “ribs”) going up and down the fabric. It’s most often used for cuffs and necklines because it’s super stretchy, but I find it also works very well for tees for kids. I don’t like using it for tees or skirts for myself, however, because it doesn’t give a super smooth silhouette – the extreme stretchiness doesn’t hide much, if you know what I mean.
Cotton lycra and cotton spandex knit
These fabrics are very smooth and flattering for women’s wear. Many of the layering tees or tanks you find in stores are made from this type of fabric. The small percentage of spandex or lycra gives these fabrics excellent stretch and great recovery (with means it holds it’s shape well and won’t get stretched out). Many lycra or spandex knit blends are a bit heavier in weight than jersey – Girl Charlee carries lots of different colors and prints in a 10oz weight, which is my favorite for making shirts for myself. Most of these fabrics do curl along the cut edges, which means you can often leave the edge raw as opposed to hemming (although if you do want to hem the edge the curl can make it a little more difficult). I love these fabrics for t-shirts; many people also use these knits for maxi skirts.
Cotton interlock knit
Cotton interlock knit is another common knit type, and this is one you’ll be able to find at your local fabric store (Joann, etc.) in a variety of solids and occasionally some prints. Interlock is a great beginner’s knit to sew on – it’s generally a little thicker and more stable than other knits, which means it sews up a lot like a woven. I like to use interlock for skirts or dresses (I used this chevron interlock for my easy tee maxi dress) because the heavier weight makes me feel less self conscious about my booty. It’s also perfect for blankets – it’s usually incredibly soft with a high quality feel.
French terry knit
French terry knit is one I’ve just started using – I’d never order it before because I imagined it would be like terry cloth – like towels – but it’s not like that at all. It’s very soft and drapey, and has a casual, comfy feel. You can see my french terry version of the easy tee here, using this awesome ethnic diamond knit. French terry is also called stretch or jersey terry, and is flat on one side (the patterned side) and has tiny loops on the underside, which are very soft and don’t bother my skin at all. I did notice that french terry shrunk more in the wash than the other types of knits I’ve used, so keep that in mind when ordering. I made a tee, but it would work well for lounge pants or shorts as well.
Hacci sweater knit
Hacci sweater knit feels very soft, like sweater material, but it’s generally a little lighter in weight than most sweaters you’d buy at the store (and it’s not like a cable knit, or a sweater someone would actually knit for you). It’s soft and stretchy and sews up just like normal knits. I think it’s best suited to sweaters that are a little slouchy or oversized. Be sure to check the weight and remember that if it says 10 or 12oz it’s going to feel quite lightweight for a sweater.
Sweatshirt fleece
I just ordered my very first sweatshirt fleece (in that awesome coral color above) and I’m excited to sew with it. It’s smooth on the outside with super soft fleece on the inside. As with the hacci sweater knits, it’s lighter weight than what you see in sweatshirts at the store. I think that’s a good thing, though – it means it will drape well instead of just being bulky. There’s not much stretch to it – really just a little, so it will be very easy to sew. I’m planning to make a dress for my daughter with it, although it would also be perfect for a lightweight sweatshirt or lounge pants or shorts.
Jersey rayon spandex
Jersey rayon spandex feels to me like a cross between a jersey and a cotton spandex knit, and it’s one type I haven’t actually sewn with yet. Girl Charlee carries quite a few solids in pretty colors. The rayon spandex blends are lighter in weight than most of the cotton spandex blends, so I would use them for kid’s tees, nightgowns, etc., but not for tees for myself unless I planned to layer something under them. They might work great for a gathered skirt or dress, however – the fabric seems soft enough to gather nicely without pouffing out too much, and would probably be very cool in hot weather. The edges do curl, and the lighter weight means it will be a little trickier to sew on.
Lycra spandex knit
Lycra spandex knit is often known as dance wear or swimwear knit. It’s super stretchy and generally a pretty good weight, perfect for making leotards, leggings, or swimwear (with a lining). It has a smooth, almost shiny feel, like what you’re used to seeing on swimsuits. I don’t think it would work well for a t-shirt – it just doesn’t have the right feel – but I just ordered some of the pretty aqua floral above to try making a wrap dress with – I’ll let you know how it goes!
Ponte de roma
Ponte de roma is a slightly thicker, sturdier knit that usually has a slight side-to-side texture (look closely at the blue and white strip above and you’ll see what I mean). Pontes can vary quite a bit in how stretchy they are and cheap ponte de roma can feel almost like old school polyester. The ponte I’ve ordered from Girl Charlee has been quite soft and still had a pretty good amount of stretch, but since it’s sturdier it’s very good at hiding body imperfections. I like pontes for dresses (see it on my retro easy tee dress here) and skirts, but find it a little too heavy for tee shirts. It doesn’t breathe quite as well as a jersey, so keep that in mind if you plan to make a maxi skirt with it – it can feel a little hot in very warm weather. Girl Charlee has some awesome new ponte de roma prints right now!
Cotton thermal knit is just what it sounds like – the material thermals or long underwear are made from. I think it makes great long sleeve shirts for kids. It’s a little clingy, so I probably wouldn’t use it for a shirt for myself.
You may also run into modal knits, hemp knits, bamboo knits, and silk knits. All of these fabrics use different types of natural fibers in place of cotton or polyester, and they are generally more expensive. Due to their cost I haven’t sewn much with these, although I did get a good deal on a bamboo knit (which I know lots of sewists LOVE) from Girl Charlee. It’s very smooth and almost luxurious in feel.
Another type of knit is tricot, which is often used as a lining. Lightweight tricot is what most slips are made from these days, and heavier weight tricot is good for lining swimwear, sheer dresses, etc.
Finally, you’ll also see stretch lace. Stretch lace is just what it sounds like – lace that stretches! It’s perfect for using as an overlay on tees, like you see on this shirt. Since it is lace, I’ve found it’s not as durable as other knits – repeated washing and wear can result in snags or frays, so treat it with care.
I’m sure there are a few types I’ve missed, but that should cover the basics.
Thank you , thank you,Thank you for this information. I have wondered about knits for years. I have bought some knits with cute designs for my granddaughther……..come home to find out they are too heavy for our climate.
Thanks again ,Shirley
Isn’t that so frustrating! I was pretty bummed when I got my very first order of knit fabric because I hadn’t paid any attention to weight. Now that I know better what to expect I have lots fewer disappointments!
You make it easy to understand. Thanks, and I’m sure I’ll be back to this post often. The only way to make this post better would be to include washing suggestions for each type of knit.
thanks, Audrey! As for washing, I’m pretty lazy about my wash, which means I was all my fabrics before hand on a normal cycle. Most knits don’t shrink too much, although I noticed the french terry shrunk more than usual. Then since I know it’s all pre-shrunk, I just wash the clothes I make in normal cycles afterwards. Most knit (other than lace) holds up pretty well in the wash!
Hi Autumn!
Thank you so much for the information about knit fabrics!
Why type of knit fabric would you recommend for bed linens?
Thanks!
Lee
Thanks for the great post! Since knits seem to be the hot item to sew with now, they can also be confusing on which to buy for a project. You explained them very well!
thank you!
You did a great job of putting it all together for us. Thank you.
Thanks, this is really helpful!
I too love sewing with knits thanks so much for sharing about the different knits. Have a blessed day!
Hi SyLvia!
Do you have any recommendations for using knit fabrics to make bed linens with?
Thanks!
Lee
Great post! I never know the difference between all the sub categories of knit when ordering online. Can you share which of these typically has a four way stretch? Thanks!
I new to sewing so any bit of information helps! I’m planning on trying to make your tie waist maxi-dress with some knit fabric I found. I love the fabrics Girl Charlee has to offer!,
This really helped a lot. I’m always wearing tshirts so it would be great to learn to sew my own. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you so much for a such an informative post!!!! (BTW I’ve make like 6 of your easy tees-I LOVE them! I’m working on an easy tee maxi right now!)
Thanks so much for this information. Thanks for the giveaway.
So many different types of knit!! I signed up for your newsletter.
Thanks so much for this knits breakdown! It is info I’ll revisit over and over again I’m sure. Thanks also for your great tutorials. I’ve been afraid to sew with knits but I’ve used your raglan tee tutorial three times now and even felt confident enough to modify it to make a boatneck raglan! Your instructions are so easy to follow. 🙂
Thank you for this post – I just started sewing with knits and this is soooo helpful!!
Oh my gosh!!! Thank you sooooo much for posting this! I am definitely a touchy-feely fabric buyer. I’ve started sewing with knits a lot more since I finally jumped on the double needle bandwagon, and while I haven’t had any absolute knit disappointments, I have had a couple that weren’t quite what I expected. So I’ve limited my purchasing to only what I knew for sure. Now I can broaden my horizons! And I HAVE ordered from Girl Charlee before. Their selection is just amazing!!!
I have been sewing for many years, never knew the names just the visual feel of different knits, this has been very helpful. I will pin it for future use. Thanks
Great post! Knit have always been a bit scary to me and ordering online even more so because I didn’t understand the different types. Thank you!!
Oops..Knits
My mom stumbled upon this post and sent it to me. I want to try to imitate a maxi dress my girls saw and loved that’s $80! It’s made with rayon-elastane and is long and flowy. I’ve been unable to find rayon-elastane or any other material that seemed appropriate. My mom thought that your description of Cotton lycra and cotton spandex knit might be very similar and would work well. What do you think?
http://www.chasing-fireflies.com/fuchsia-swirly-ruffles-maxi-girls-dress/17034
Good job. Your article removed 95% of the anxiety I had about ordering from the Internet fabric shops.
Thank you so much! This is such great information!
My son in law has a lot of hair. He had asked me to make him a headband that is stretchy enough but strong enough. Any thoughts, or help. Thank you so much.
Rachel
Thank you so much for this great post. Now can you follow up wit the best needle for each type of fabric? Or maybe I just use the same one for all knits? I’ve been getting better at matching needles and fabrics, but have a long way to go!
Which of these do you suggest for a mid-weight cardigan? This is super helpful for tees and dresses, but I wasn’t sure which options would be best for a cardi/sweater DIY.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for so much for this post! I’m just starting sewing and I had bought a pattern for a tank top. I tried it out with 2 different fabrics and it was stiff and hard to get on. Now I know that I just used the wrong type. 😛
ps. I’ve got this post on my bookmark bar now! lol
Thank you so much for this blog! What fabric do you think is best for infinity scarves? I’m making both summer scarves and winter scarves and I’d love to hear you opinion on both. Thank you!
This was a very helpful article. I’ve never ordered fabric online. Now I just might take the plunge.
Super
Hi! What a fantastic post!!!! I just happened across it on Pinterest, so that’s awesome that it still drives traffic to your awesome blog here. And discovering Girl Charlee is also amazing. I have been on the hunt for some fabric to buy in small bulk order for my new handmade shop and I think I just found some great things over there, so thank you for that!
useful
I am looking for a medium to heavy weight knit that is lined with fleece or faux fur. I have some gloves that have the fur in them and I thought I’d like to make a cardigan tunic from it. I’m not having any luck with online search results.
The other thing I’m having double finding fabric for is the lined polyester (I think) knits that make awesome pants/leggings that offer stretch as well. If you have any suggestions please let me know. We have only one JoAnne fabric store in Roanoke, VA and a few quilting stores and that’s it.
Cathy
Excellent post on the varieties of knot fabric. I love Girl Charlee, my fav online fabric store!
thank u verry much for information
Thanks for the great information. What knit would you recommend for infant and kids summer clothes?
Thanks for all the great information. Would love eto get your email updates.
hey please tell me that burnout fabrics gives cool feeling or hot feeling?
Thank you Autumn, very helpful post. I want to make leg warmers. They need have enough stretch to stretch over the legs and give a snug fit and needs to be thick enough to be nice and warm. Which knit fabrics would you recommend for that? Wool knit jersey? Wool rib knit etc?
Need a little help. Can you please tell me what a Tricot fabric is. I’m wanting Cotton Jersey as I’m sewing for baby, but in our 2 stores that we have in Adelaide the choice is not great. Family in Europe is using Tricot and have gone on-line and they are beautiful prints. Hunting here but cannot find.
The only tricot I have ever used is the fabric that slips are made out of – stretchy and lightweight. I’ve only ever seen it in plain white or other neutrals. I’m not sure if what I’m thinking of is the same thing your family in Europe is finding! Good luck.
Have you found anywhere that sells cute sweatshirt fleece with cute prints? (Floral, stripes, nautical…)
Just wanted to say thank you and this post was super helpful. Still relevant 3 years later!
Thank you! Really appreciate for this information. I have wondered about knits for years.
Anyone know which fabric is best for creating a headband for a baby?
please I’m interested in making men’s under ware (singlet). which materials is normally used?
Hi There,
I’m in search of a material I once had in a robe that was bought for me in the early 90s but I don’t know the name of the material. I think it might be french terry.?. It’s a very light weight terry cloth like material. It wasn’t big and bulky material like most terry cloth robes are. It was light and fitting yet felt and looked like a thin and soft towel like material. Does this sound like french terry to you or are there other lightweight terry like materials?
I’d appreciate any help/advice you might have. Thank you!
Becky
thanks…..
it helpt me with my Yr 8 sewing project
Hi,
Amazing post.. i have a question. What would be the best fabric for scrundies?
Thank you!
Great information! Thank you so much.
Hi Autumn
Frist I want to say you have such a great website. Your post is so helpful for my project but I am still struggeling a bit. I want to make seamless panties without sewing or hot bonding the edges. I want to use lycra or polyester/elastane fabric. So I tried lycra (80% nylon / 20% spandex) and polyester ( 87% polyester / 13% elastane) but all edges roll up/down when streching. Other seamless panty brands use the same fabric but their panties don’t do that curl thing. I just don’t get it what is the difference between my fabric and theirs? Do you have any suggestions what fabric should I use or look for?
Oh, I’m not sure. That’s a tough one. My guess is that brands treat the edges of the fabric somehow to prevent it from rolling up. I don’t have much experience making undergarments so I’m not sure what to recommend. Sorry!
Hi.
Very well written post. I had one question. Which is the best fabric for bodycon or sheath pencil dress for women which is soft n stretchy?
Thanks
Thank you! really new to sewing and want very much to sew my own shirts. cannot stand what is available for my body type (read- muffin). now i will try to be brave and plow ahead!
I got some cotton interlock 200gsm, so you think it would be too heavy for a shirt? do you only use it in skirts/dresses?
Thank you so much for this post. I am new to sewing and haven’t ventured into sewing with knits yet, partly because I wasn’t sure which sorts of knits to use for different items. This post was just what I needed to help clear up questions I had about the different types I was always seeing mentioned all in one go without having to search ever term I came across separately lol.
Autumn, thanks for the info! I have a question about rayon spandex. Halftee.com sells it’s basic tees in rayon spandex now (instead of the old cotton), and I was wondering if that fabric can be see through at all? You mentioned in the Jersey Rayon Spandex part that you wouldn’t use that fabric for tees unless you were going to layer something under them, so I thought I would ask to see whether I should get the new rayon spandex or not.
Thanks!
Which knit would work best for hats?
What kind of fabric can I use for headwraps for baby’s? Like the waffle spandex material?
Thanks for the most helpful info! Have made notes in my sewing book, but will also bookmark this. New to working with knits & with ordering fabric on line – will definitely checkout Girl Charles fabrics.